Where the East Still Has a Frontier

Route 120 crosses the Pennsylvania Wilds, a 2-million-acre stretch of northcentral Pennsylvania that is the most sparsely populated landscape between New York City and Chicago. The road follows Sinnemahoning Creek northwest from Lock Haven through a deep hardwood gorge, past mountain walls of birch, hemlock, and maple, into elk country: the only place in the eastern United States where a free-roaming elk herd grazes in open meadows within earshot of the highway. Pennsylvania's elk were hunted to extinction by 1867. Between 1913 and 1926, the Game Commission released 177 Rocky Mountain elk, most sourced from Yellowstone, into these mountains. The herd dwindled to just 14 animals by 1936 but has since recovered to roughly 1,400 and now ranges across five counties. The drive's name honors the Bucktail Regiment, Civil War soldiers from these valleys who wore deer tails in their hats. In September and October, bull elk bugle across the meadows at dawn and dusk during the rut, and the surrounding hardwood forests ignite in color. The route finishes in Ridgway, a Victorian county seat and gateway to the Allegheny National Forest.

Key Stops

Lock Haven The eastern starting point, a small city at the confluence of Bald Eagle Creek and the West Branch Susquehanna River. Full services, fuel, and dining are available here. The Piper Aviation Museum preserves the legacy of Piper Aircraft, which manufactured its iconic Cubs in Lock Haven for decades.

Bucktail State Park Natural Area The natural area stretches along Route 120 between Lock Haven and Emporium, following the Sinnemahoning Creek gorge through forested mountains. This is not a developed state park but a protected corridor of hemlock ravines, hardwood ridges, and creek-side scenery. In mid-October, the foliage along this stretch rivals any in the Northeast.

Renovo A small railroad heritage town tucked in the creek valley, once home to major Pennsylvania Railroad workshops. The annual Flaming Foliage Festival in October draws visitors for fall color and community celebrations. A good place to stretch your legs and explore a piece of industrial Appalachian history.

Sinnemahoning State Park A short detour south on Route 872 leads to this 1,910-acre park centered on the George B. Stevenson Reservoir. It is one of Pennsylvania's premier bald eagle watching sites, with multiple nesting pairs resident year-round (best viewing December through March). The reservoir allows electric-motor boating and fishing. Osprey, black bear, wild turkey, and waterfowl are also regularly spotted. Seasonal campground available.

Elk Country Visitor Center (Benezette) The premier elk viewing facility in the eastern United States, operated by the Keystone Elk Country Alliance. The center sits on Winslow Hill Road overlooking open meadows where elk graze, often within a few hundred feet of the viewing platforms. Inside, interactive exhibits, a Discovery Room, and a 4-D theater tell the story of Pennsylvania's elk herd and its remarkable recovery. Admission is free (donations encouraged). Seasonal wagon rides offer guided viewing during the rut. Hours vary by season: daily 8 a.m. to dusk during September and October, reduced winter hours (weekends only January through March).

Winslow Hill Elk Viewing Area The most popular and accessible elk viewing area, with multiple pull-offs along Winslow Hill Road near the Visitor Center. Open meadows and managed food plots provide clear sightlines. Elk gather here at dawn and dusk year-round, but the spectacle peaks during the September and October rut, when bulls weighing up to 1,100 pounds bugle, spar, and herd their harems across the fields.

Dents Run A more remote viewing area northwest of Benezette, reached via gravel road. Less crowded than Winslow Hill and favored by photographers seeking solitary encounters. Elk frequent the open clearings along the road at dawn and dusk.

Hicks Run Elk Viewing Area Accessed from Route 555, this area offers elk viewing in a wilder, less developed setting. Food plots maintained by the Pennsylvania Game Commission draw elk into open fields. A good alternative when Winslow Hill is busy during peak rut season.

Emporium The Cameron County seat and the largest town on the core Bucktail route, with roughly 2,000 residents. Fuel up here before heading into elk country, as services are extremely limited beyond this point. The small downtown has restaurants, lodging, and a classic county courthouse.

St. Marys The largest town in Elk County (population roughly 12,000), with the best selection of chain hotels, restaurants, and services in the region. Founded by German Catholic settlers, the town is home to Straub Brewery, one of the smallest and oldest family breweries in the country. A practical base for elk viewing day trips.

Ridgway The Elk County seat and western terminus of the drive, with a walkable Victorian downtown of small restaurants, shops, and B&Bs. The annual Chainsaw Carvers Rendezvous fills the town with artists sculpting wood with chainsaws. Ridgway also serves as a gateway to the Allegheny National Forest to the north and west.

Driving Tips

• Time your visit for mid-September to mid-October to combine the elk rut with peak fall foliage. Bull elk bugle most actively at dawn and dusk during this window.
• Maintain at least 100 feet (ideally 100 yards) from elk at all times. Bull elk during the rut are aggressive and dangerous. Stay in or near your vehicle when elk are close. Never approach, feed, or use calls to attract them.
• Fuel up in Lock Haven, Emporium, St. Marys, or Ridgway. There are virtually no gas stations for the 75 miles between Lock Haven and Emporium, and Benezette has only minimal services.
• Cell coverage is extremely limited to nonexistent through most of the route. This is one of the most remote regions in the eastern United States. Download offline maps before departure.
• Side roads to elk viewing areas (Winslow Hill Road, Dents Run, Hicks Run) range from paved to maintained gravel. Some become rough in wet weather.
• Arrive at viewing areas before dawn or in the late afternoon for the best elk activity. Bring binoculars and a telephoto lens rather than trying to get closer on foot.
• Accommodations near Benezette are very limited (a few cabins and small lodges). Book months in advance for September and October. St. Marys has the most reliable hotel availability.
• Watch for white-tailed deer on the road throughout the drive, especially at dusk. Black bears also cross Route 120 with some regularity.
• For more information visit: Elk Country Visitor Center