The Ring of Kerry's Wilder, Quieter Sister

The Ring of Beara traces a rugged loop around the Beara Peninsula in southwest Ireland, straddling the border of County Cork and County Kerry between Bantry Bay and the Kenmare River. Where its famous neighbor, the Ring of Kerry, draws tour buses by the dozen, Beara's roads are too narrow for coaches, keeping this peninsula wild, quiet, and largely undiscovered. From Kenmare, the route follows the north coast past stone circles and painted villages, rounds the Atlantic tip at Dursey Island (reached by Ireland's only cable car), then returns along the south coast through the fishing port of Castletownbere. The centerpiece is the Healy Pass, a single-track mountain road with hairpin bends and 18% gradients that climbs through the Caha Mountains to 334 meters, rewarding the ascent with views over Glanmore Lake and the Kerry hills. The peninsula carries deep history: the ruins of Dunboy Castle mark the last stand of Gaelic Ireland in 1602, the engine houses at Allihies recall 150 years of copper mining, and Daphne du Maurier named a novel after Hungry Hill, the brooding peak that dominates the skyline. Drive clockwise to stay on the seaward side.

Key Stops

Kenmare A charming heritage town at the head of Kenmare Bay, with good restaurants, craft shops, and accommodation. It serves as the gateway to both the Ring of Kerry and the Ring of Beara. Fuel up here before heading out on the R571.

Ardgroom Stone Circle Just outside the village of Ardgroom, a well-preserved stone circle commands views over the Kenmare River estuary and the Kerry mountains beyond. Free to visit and signposted from the village.

Eyeries One of the most photographed villages on the peninsula, its houses painted in vivid reds, yellows, blues, and greens. A small, quiet place with a pub and basic amenities, worth a short stop for the color alone.

Allihies and the Copper Mines A small village at the western tip of the peninsula that was the center of a major copper mining industry from 1812 to 1962. At their peak in the 1840s, the mines employed over 1,600 people, including Cornish miners brought in for their expertise. The dramatic engine house ruins still stand in the landscape. The Allihies Copper Mine Museum, housed in the chapel built by Cornish miners in 1845, tells the story. Nearby Ballydonegan Beach is a fine sandy strand.

Dursey Island Cable Car Ireland's only cable car, and the only one in Europe crossing open seawater, connects the mainland to Dursey Island at the very tip of the peninsula. Reopened in mid-2023 after a €1.6 million upgrade, the cable car runs daily year-round (9:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. in summer, reduced hours in winter). The island is now uninhabited, with ruins, a signal tower, and dramatic Atlantic cliff scenery.

Castletownbere The principal town on the peninsula and Ireland's largest whitefish fishing port, sheltered by Bere Island in Berehaven Harbour. This is the place to refuel, eat, and stock up. Ferries depart from here to Bere Island, a former British naval base with Martello towers and quiet walking trails.

Dunboy Castle Approximately 4 km southwest of Castletownbere, the ruins of the O'Sullivan Beare stronghold stand on a rocky promontory overlooking the harbor. After the Battle of Kinsale in 1601, the 1602 Siege of Dunboy became one of the last stands of Gaelic Ireland. Chieftain Donal Cam O'Sullivan Beare subsequently led 1,000 followers on a desperate 500 km winter march north; only 35 survived. Free to visit.

Hungry Hill At 685 meters, the highest peak on the peninsula rises above Adrigole with a dramatic waterfall (Mare's Tail) on its flanks. The mountain inspired Daphne du Maurier's 1943 novel Hungry Hill, based on the rise and fall of the Puxley copper mining family.

Healy Pass (R574) The showpiece of the drive: a single-track mountain road connecting Adrigole on the south coast to Lauragh on the north, climbing through hairpin bends and gradients up to 18% to a summit at 334 meters in the Caha Mountains. The 12 km crossing takes 20 to 25 minutes. Approach from the Adrigole (south) side for the most dramatic reveal: the descent toward Glanmore Lake with the Kerry mountains unfolding ahead. Not suitable for large vehicles. Watch for sheep, fog, and oncoming traffic at blind bends.

Garnish Island (Ilnacullin) A short ferry ride from Glengarriff Pier (approximately €15 return) brings you to this island in Bantry Bay, home to an Italianate garden designed by Harold Peto in 1910. The Gulf Stream microclimate supports subtropical plantings, tree ferns, and a Grecian temple. Look for seals on the rocks during the crossing. Garden admission is approximately €5 per adult (free with OPW Heritage Card). Open April through October.

Glengarriff and Caha Pass The sheltered village of Glengarriff sits at the head of its harbor, surrounded by 300 hectares of ancient oceanic oak woodland (free to explore via the Nature Reserve trails). From here, the N71 returns to Kenmare over the Caha Pass, threading through 19th-century hand-hewn rock tunnels blasted from the mountainside, with panoramic views from the summit.

Driving Tips

• Drive clockwise from Kenmare for the best coastal views and the most dramatic approach to the Healy Pass (ascending from the Adrigole side).
• Roads are narrow and single-lane in many sections, with passing places. Pull in to let oncoming traffic through; the driver closer to the lay-by should yield.
• No tour buses can navigate these roads, which keeps traffic light, but expect tractors, sheep, and cyclists around blind bends.
• Do not attempt the Healy Pass in a large motorhome or campervan. The hairpin bends and gradients are too tight for anything bigger than a standard car.
• Fuel up in Kenmare, Castletownbere, or Glengarriff. There are no petrol stations on the mountain passes or the remote western tip.
• Carry cash. Garnish Island and some smaller attractions do not accept cards.
• Mobile phone signal is patchy to nonexistent on remote sections. Download offline maps before setting out.
• If fog obscures the Healy Pass, the Caha Pass (N71) between Glengarriff and Kenmare is a wider, easier alternative that still delivers mountain scenery through its rock tunnels.
• Allow a full day at minimum. Two days with an overnight in Castletownbere or Allihies lets you explore without rushing.
• For more information visit: Beara Tourism