Colorado's Oldest Scenic Drive, Along the Continental Divide

The Peak-to-Peak Scenic Byway is Colorado's oldest designated scenic drive, established in 1918 to connect the gold-mining towns of Black Hawk and Central City with the eastern entrance of the new Rocky Mountain National Park at Estes Park. The route hugs the eastern flank of the Continental Divide between 7,500 and 9,500 feet, threading 55 miles through Roosevelt National Forest with a near-continuous parade of 14,000-foot peaks rising to the west: Mount Audubon, Mount Toll, Mount Meeker, and the granite massif of Longs Peak (14,259 ft), the northernmost fourteener in the Rockies and the only one in Rocky Mountain National Park. The southern end of the byway begins in the historic gambling towns of Black Hawk and Central City, once known as "the richest square mile on earth" when over $2 million in gold was extracted in 1859 alone (worth roughly $70 million today). The road then climbs through the lodgepole pines and alpine lakes of the Indian Peaks Wilderness, passes through the quirky mountain town of Nederland (a counterculture holdout that hosts the annual Frozen Dead Guy Days), reaches the alpine recreation hub of Brainard Lake, and finishes its descent into Estes Park, the picturesque gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park. In mid-September, when the aspen groves turn brilliant gold against the dark spruce-fir forest, the drive ranks among the finest fall foliage routes in the western United States. The road remains open and plowed year-round, making it one of the few high-country scenic drives accessible even in winter.

Key Stops

Black Hawk and Central City The southern terminus of the byway, twin mining towns perched in Gregory Gulch where John Gregory's 1859 strike triggered Colorado's first gold rush. Central City became known as "the richest square mile on earth" and at its peak rivaled Denver in importance. The boom built a treasure of Victorian architecture, including the Teller House (where President Ulysses S. Grant stayed) and the Central City Opera House (built 1878, restored in the 1930s, still operating with a summer season). Both towns now also house Colorado's casino industry, legalized in 1991 to fund historic preservation; rates were raised in 2009 to allow bets up to $100. A short hike west of Central City reaches the near-ghost town of Nevadaville, where a handful of weathered cabins still cling to slopes pockmarked by mining.

The "Oh My God Road" (Side Trip) Officially Virginia Canyon Road, this unpaved back road winds 8.5 narrow, hair-raising miles between Central City and Idaho Springs, dropping past abandoned mine headframes and ore dumps. The name dates to the gold rush era. Suitable for standard vehicles in dry weather; not recommended in winter. The route passes a notable stretch where the highway shoulder simply ends at a several-hundred-foot drop.

Roosevelt National Forest North of Black Hawk, CO-119 climbs through a steep gorge into the 813,000-acre Roosevelt National Forest, established in 1908 and named for Theodore Roosevelt. Glimpses south reveal Mount Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans, 14,271 ft), one of Colorado's most accessible fourteeners.

Golden Gate Canyon State Park A spur road east leads to this 12,000-acre state park with extensive hiking trails, fishing ponds, campgrounds, and Panorama Point, where on clear days the Denver skyline is visible 30 miles east. Entry $10 per vehicle.

Nederland A small mountain town at 8,228 feet (3,000 feet higher than Denver) on the shores of Barker Reservoir. Once a mining and tungsten-processing center, Nederland is now a counterculture enclave with art galleries, restaurants, the Nederland Mining Museum, and the Carousel of Happiness (a hand-carved wooden carousel that turned a Vietnam veteran's meditative project into a community treasure). The town hosts the famously eccentric Frozen Dead Guy Days festival (originally inspired by a cryogenically frozen corpse stored in a Nederland Tuff Shed; the festival has since relocated to Estes Park but the legend remains local lore).

Eldora Mountain Resort (Side Trip) A small, family-friendly ski area just west of Nederland with lift-served skiing in winter and mountain biking in summer.

Ward A tiny, once-rowdy mining camp 9 miles north of Nederland on CO-72, now a quirky community of about 150 residents with strict resistance to development. Worth a slow drive-through.

Brainard Lake Recreation Area A short detour west from CO-72 leads to one of the most popular alpine recreation areas on the Front Range. The drive accesses Red Rock Lake, Brainard Lake, and the Long Lake Trailhead, with stunning reflections of the Indian Peaks (including Mount Audubon, 13,229 ft) in the still water. Trails fan out toward Lake Isabelle, Pawnee Pass, and the Continental Divide. Important access change: Brainard Lake requires advance timed-entry reservations during summer (Recreation.gov, typically late June through mid-October), with separate fees ($15 per vehicle for day use plus a small reservation fee). The area is open for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in winter, when avalanche danger is real.

Peaceful Valley and Camp Dick CO-72 hairpins through a tunnel-like canyon walled by granite cliffs and drops into the meadows of Peaceful Valley, where the namesake campground and the Peaceful Valley Lodge (a guest ranch operating since the 1940s) anchor a beautiful stretch. Bears and elk are commonly seen.

Allenspark A small community of cabins and lodges at 8,400 feet, with several rustic restaurants. Worth a stop for breakfast or pie at the Meadow Mountain Cafe or the Allenspark Lodge.

Wild Basin (Rocky Mountain National Park) Three miles past the junction with CO-7, a scenic overlook frames Mount Meeker (13,911 ft) and the Wild Basin section of Rocky Mountain National Park, the park's quietest and least-crowded entrance. The Wild Basin Trailhead leads to Calypso Cascades and Ouzel Falls (about 6 miles round trip), one of the best moderate hikes in the park. National park entry fee applies.

Longs Peak Trailhead The famed Longs Peak (14,259 ft) is the northernmost fourteener in the Rockies and the only one in Rocky Mountain National Park. The Keyhole Route is a strenuous, exposed 14- to 15-hour round-trip climb requiring an alpine start (typically 2 a.m. departure to summit before afternoon storms). Day-hikers can reach Chasm Lake (8.4 miles round trip) at the base of the peak's east face, the Diamond, for spectacular alpine views without the technical climb.

Enos Mills Monument A small monument honors Enos Mills, the naturalist whose advocacy led to the creation of Rocky Mountain National Park in 1915. Often called "the Father of Rocky Mountain National Park," Mills published widely and led wilderness education campaigns from a cabin still preserved nearby. The Twin Sisters Peaks rise beyond; in mid-September, look for the "butterfly burn," a stand of aspens on the west face of the Twin Sisters that grew back from a wildfire burn pattern shaped like a giant butterfly.

Lily Lake A small alpine lake in Rocky Mountain National Park, ringed by an easy 0.8-mile accessible loop trail with views of Mount Meeker, Longs Peak, and the Twin Sisters. The original lilies were lost when early homesteaders drained the lake for water; the park has since restored the lake, which now hosts ring-necked ducks, mallards, and migrating Canada geese. Free parking; no park entry fee required (the lake sits at the park boundary).

Estes Park The northern terminus and the eastern gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park. The town nestles in a broad mountain valley at 7,500 feet, with elk grazing on the municipal golf course and downtown lawns during the fall rut (mid-September through mid-October). The historic Stanley Hotel (built 1909 by Stanley Steamer inventor F.O. Stanley) sits on a hill above town; its haunted reputation inspired Stephen King's The Shining after he and his wife stayed in Room 217 in 1974. A summer aerial tram climbs Prospect Mountain for panoramic views. Trail Ridge Road (the highest continuous paved road in North America) begins here and crosses Rocky Mountain National Park to Grand Lake; the park entrance station is just west of town. Full services. Park entry $30 per vehicle for 7 days.

Driving Tips

• The byway is fully paved, two-lane, and well-maintained throughout. It remains open and plowed year-round, making it one of the few Front Range scenic drives accessible in winter.
• Drive south to north (Black Hawk to Estes Park) for the most dramatic narrative arc, building from the historic mining towns through the alpine country to the gateway of Rocky Mountain National Park.
• Watch for wildlife. Elk, mule deer, bighorn sheep, and the occasional black bear are common along the byway, particularly at dawn and dusk. The elk rut from mid-September through mid-October draws bulls to Estes Park town meadows in spectacular fashion.
• Aspen peak typically falls between the third week of September and the first week of October. The byway and Bear Lake Road in Rocky Mountain National Park are the two finest aspen drives in the Front Range; both are crowded on autumn weekends.
• Brainard Lake Recreation Area requires advance timed-entry reservations from late June through mid-October (Recreation.gov). $15 day-use fee plus reservation fee. Without a reservation, you may be turned away at the gate. Winter access is free but ungated; carry traction devices for snowshoeing or skiing.
• Black Hawk and Central City casinos are open 24/7 and serve as practical fuel and food stops. Parking garages are plentiful.
• Cell coverage is generally reliable along the byway thanks to its proximity to Boulder and the Denver metro area, but spotty in the deeper canyons and at Brainard Lake.
• Altitude affects most visitors. Drink extra water, limit alcohol, and consider a night at moderate elevation (Boulder or Estes Park) before attempting strenuous high-altitude hikes like Longs Peak.
• Summer afternoon thunderstorms are intense and dangerous on exposed ridges and peaks. Plan high-elevation hikes to be off summits by noon.
• Estes Park lodging fills well in advance for summer weekends and during the elk rut. Book months ahead, or stay in Allenspark, Nederland, or Boulder.
• For more information visit: What to See on the Peak to Peak Scenic Byway | Peaks & Waterfalls