A Loop Around Finland's Greatest Lake, Home of the World's Rarest Seal

Lake Saimaa is Finland's largest lake and Europe's fourth largest, less a single body of water than a 4,400 km² labyrinth of open water, sounds, and nearly 14,000 islands stretching across the Finnish Lakeland. This circuit rings its southern and eastern reaches, linking the lake's four main towns and its two most celebrated stretches of road: Route 62, officially ranked among the five most beautiful roads in the Nordic countries, which curls along rocky, pine-topped shorelines between Imatra and Mikkeli, and the Punkaharju Ridge Road, a narrow esker threading between two lakes that has been protected since the 1840s and painted by generations of Finnish artists. Along the way you pass a medieval island castle, the world's largest wooden church, and a sculpture garden of 500 concrete figures. The lake itself holds the star: the Saimaa ringed seal, found nowhere else on Earth, with only a few hundred individuals remaining.

Key Stops

Lappeenranta. The lively capital of South Karelia and the loop's starting point. Explore the hilltop Linnoitus fortress quarter above the harbor, where a giant sandcastle is sculpted fresh every summer. The Saimaa Canal, which links the lake to the Baltic, begins just east of town; the old locks at Mälkiä are worth a look before departure.

Imatra. Famous since the 1700s for the Imatrankoski rapids, once Finland's biggest tourist attraction (Catherine the Great came to see them). The river is dammed today, but on summer evenings the gates open for a scheduled rapids show set to music; check current times, as the schedule changes yearly. The Art Nouveau castle hotel above the gorge and the Kruununpuisto park, one of Finland's oldest protected areas, round out the stop.

Route 62, Lietvesi stretch. The scenic core of the whole circuit. Between Ruokolahti and Puumala the road rides a rocky, island-studded shoreline with long water views on both sides, official scenic rest stops, and the short, free Hätinvirta cable ferry gliding across a strait further north toward Mikkeli. Allow far more time than the map suggests.

Puumala. A classic Saimaa harbor village strung along a sound, overlooked by its high road bridge. This is one of the best bases for Saimaa ringed seal cruises, and in high summer a signed Archipelago Route side loop (part gravel, closed by a summer-only ferry) circles the surrounding islands. Good restaurants and a busy guest marina in July.

Mikkeli. A relaxed market-square town at Saimaa's northwestern corner and the headquarters of Finland's WWII army command, remembered in several museums. From nearby Ristiina, boat trips run to the Astuvansalmi rock paintings, one of the largest prehistoric rock-art sites in the Nordic countries.

Savonlinna. The jewel of the Lakeland, built across islands. Olavinlinna, founded in 1475, is among the best-preserved medieval castles in northern Europe and hosts the month-long Savonlinna Opera Festival every July, when performances fill the castle courtyard and the town fills to capacity. The lakeside market sells fried vendace and the local lörtsy pastry.

Kerimäki. A short detour east of Rte 14: the world's largest wooden church, built in 1847 with seating for around 3,000 people. Open to visitors in summer.

Punkaharju Ridge Road. A few kilometers of narrow road along a glacial esker with lakes Puruvesi and Pihlajavesi glittering on either side, protected since the 1840s and arguably Finland's most famous scenic road. Leave Rte 14 to drive the old ridge lane itself, and stop at Lusto, the Finnish Forest Museum, at the ridge's northern end.

Parikkala Sculpture Park. Just off Rte 6 near the Russian border, the life's work of self-taught artist Veijo Rönkkönen: roughly 500 concrete human figures, many in yoga poses, crowded into a mossy forest garden. One of Finland's strangest and most memorable sights; open in the warm season.

Return via Rte 6 to Lappeenranta. The final leg runs south through Karelian farm and forest country parallel to the Russian border, closing the loop at Lappeenranta's harbor.

Driving Tips

Build the itinerary around Route 62. It's the slowest, curviest, and best part of the loop. Resist the satnav's urge to route you along faster inland highways between Imatra and Mikkeli.

Book Savonlinna far ahead for July. During the Opera Festival the town's rooms sell out months in advance. If you're not attending, consider sleeping in Punkaharju or Puumala and day-tripping in.

Time seal-watching for early summer. Saimaa ringed seals are most often seen basking on rocks in May and June. Go with a licensed cruise from Puumala, Savonlinna, or Oravi, keep your distance, and never approach a hauled-out seal by boat or kayak.

Watch for moose, dawn and dusk. Moose-crossing signs here mean it. Collisions are a genuine hazard in South Savo; slow down in low light and scan the treeline.

Fuel up in towns. Stations are plentiful in Lappeenranta, Imatra, Mikkeli, and Savonlinna but sparse along Route 62; fill up before the Lietvesi stretch.

Winter is a different trip. The roads stay open and plowed, and a frozen, silent Saimaa is beautiful, but winter tires are legally required in the cold months, days are short, and most attractions (rapids shows, cruises, Kerimäki church, the sculpture park) are closed. June to August is the drive at full strength.

Stay in a lakeside mökki. The classic Saimaa experience is a rented lakeshore cabin with its own sauna and rowboat. One cabin night mid-loop, ideally near Puumala or Punkaharju, beats another hotel.

Pair the circuit with Linnansaari National Park. From Oravi, north of Savonlinna, boats and kayaks reach the national park's island scenery, the best place of all to spot the ringed seal. Add a day if wildlife is your priority.

For more information visit: Visit Saimaa