Where Alps Meet Elegance on the Water

Lake Como is shaped like an inverted Y — a single branch stretching north to the Alps, splitting at the Bellagio promontory into two southern arms ending at Como in the west and Lecco in the east. A full loop follows the western shore north on the SS340, rounds the top at Colico, returns south along the eastern shore, and crosses the central lake by car ferry to reach Bellagio on its famous peninsula. The road is a continuous gallery of stone villages, Renaissance villas, terraced gardens, and water so still it doubles the mountains. Driving clockwise keeps you on the lake side of the road — the best views always through your right-hand window.

Key Stops

Como The drive begins at the elegant city on the lake's southwestern tip. The marble-faced Duomo, built over three centuries from 1396, blends Gothic and Renaissance styles and stands steps from the waterfront. The lakeside promenade leads to the neoclassical Villa Olmo, whose surrounding park is free and open year-round. For the defining panorama, take the Brunate funicular — a seven-minute ride from Piazza De Gasperi up to the hilltop village of Brunate, where the lookout terrace reveals the full length of the lake and the Alpine peaks beyond.

Cernobbio Four kilometers north of Como, Cernobbio marks the start of the western shore's most glamorous stretch. The town is dominated by the 16th-century Villa d'Este, now one of Italy's most celebrated hotels, its terraced gardens visible from the road. The lakefront promenade and the small piazza offer a quieter introduction to lakeside life before the road narrows ahead.

Argegno & the Cable Car to Pigra The western shore tightens at Argegno, a small village built around a medieval stone bridge where the Telo stream meets the lake. A cable car climbs from the village to the mountain hamlet of Pigra at 880 meters — the views from the top station sweep across the central lake to the Grigne mountains on the eastern shore. From Argegno north, the SS340 narrows considerably and demands attentive driving.

Lenno & Villa del Balbianello The sheltered bay at Lenno is the access point for Villa del Balbianello, one of Italy's most photographed estates and a filming location for Star Wars: Episode II and Casino Royale. The villa sits on a wooded promontory and is reached by a 25-minute walk or taxi-boat from Lenno's waterfront. Managed by FAI (Italy's National Trust), it is open Tuesday through Sunday, mid-March through November. Gardens EUR 13; villa and gardens guided tour EUR 24. Closed Mondays.

Villa Carlotta Between Tremezzo and Cadenabbia, Villa Carlotta houses a neoclassical art collection and 70,000 square meters of botanical gardens cascading down to the lakeshore — azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, and over 500 plant species. Open mid-March through late November, 10:00 AM–7:00 PM in peak season. Adults EUR 15; ages 6–18 EUR 6. One of the finest villa-garden combinations on the lake.

Menaggio A larger town with a pleasant lakefront piazza and the central lake's busiest car ferry terminal. Ferries from Menaggio connect directly to Bellagio and Varenna, forming the "central triangle" that is the practical heart of Lake Como tourism. If you plan to cross by car ferry, this is one of three departure points. Menaggio also serves as a base for excursions west to Lake Lugano in Switzerland.

Colico The northern tip of the lake, where the water ends and the Valtellina valley opens toward the Alps and the Swiss border. Colico itself is a functional town rather than a scenic highlight, but the views south down the full length of the lake are memorable. The Forte di Fuentes and the Pian di Spagna nature reserve (a wetland at the lake's inlet) merit a stop if time allows. From here the route turns south along the eastern shore.

Bellano & the Orrido On the quieter eastern shore, Bellano is worth a stop for the Orrido di Bellano — a dramatic gorge carved by the Pioverna torrent, with elevated metal walkways threading through the narrow rock walls above churning water. Open daily in season; approximately EUR 6. The old silk-mill village surrounding it has a character quite different from the polished western shore towns.

Varenna The jewel of the eastern shore. Varenna's waterfront is a row of pastel houses reflected in the lake, connected by a narrow lakeside walkway (Passeggiata degli Innamorati — the Lovers' Walk). Villa Monastero, a former Cistercian convent turned aristocratic residence, offers a botanical garden stretching along the lakeshore and a house museum with period interiors. Adults EUR 15 for both; garden only EUR 13. Villa Cipressi next door has smaller but equally beautiful terraced gardens. Varenna is also the eastern car ferry terminal — the crossing to Bellagio takes approximately 15 minutes.

Bellagio The most famous village on Lake Como, perched on the tip of the promontory where the lake divides. Steep cobblestone lanes (the Salita Serbelloni staircase) climb from the waterfront to the hilltop, lined with shops, cafés, and silk boutiques. The gardens of Villa Melzi d'Eril stretch along the southern waterfront — a neoclassical park with Japanese pond, Egyptian sculptures, and a lakefront avenue of plane trees (EUR 10; late March through October). Villa Serbelloni, now owned by the Rockefeller Foundation, offers guided garden tours only, by reservation. Bellagio is accessible by car via the SP583, but the narrow, winding road makes the car ferry from Varenna or Menaggio the far easier option.

Lecco The southeastern arm of the lake ends at Lecco, a working city set beneath the jagged Grigne peaks. Less polished than Como but with a literary pedigree — Alessandro Manzoni set The Betrothed (1827), Italy's most important novel, along these shores. The Ponte Vecchio (Azzone Visconti bridge), Manzoni's villa, and the dramatic mountain backdrop make it a worthwhile final stop before the SP583 returns you to Como.

Driving Tips

• Rent small: A compact car (Fiat 500, Panda, or similar) is essential. The SS340 between Argegno and Lenno is barely two cars wide, and meeting a tour bus requires careful maneuvering. Larger vehicles will struggle with parking and narrow village streets.
• Car ferries: The Varenna–Bellagio–Menaggio–Cadenabbia car ferry is operated by Navigazione Laghi. Car + driver costs EUR 8.60–14.40 depending on vehicle size; passengers EUR 4.60 one way. Tickets are purchased at the dock — not available online. Frequency varies by season; check the current timetable at navigazionelaghi.it.
• ZTL zones: Como city center has a camera-enforced ZTL (restricted Monday–Saturday, 7:30–10:30 AM and 4:00–8:00 PM). Bellagio's historic center is also restricted. Park outside and walk in, or ask your hotel to register your plate.
• Parking: Blue lines are paid, white lines are free, yellow lines are reserved. Arrive before 10:00 AM at Bellagio and Varenna in summer — parking fills quickly. The EasyPark app works throughout the region.
• Clockwise advantage: Driving clockwise keeps you on the lake (right-hand) side of the road, giving better views and easier access to pullouts.
• Eastern shore choice: Between Colico and Lecco, the SS36 is faster but runs mostly through tunnels with no lake views. The SP72 follows the shoreline through every village — far slower but far more scenic. Choose based on your schedule.
• Fuel: Fill up in Como, Lecco, or Menaggio. Fuel stations thin out on the narrower stretches between villages.
• For more information visit: Lake Como Official Tourism Portal